As I have embarked on the task of creating a sweet little nursery for our new little lumberjack, due November 15th, I have discovered that their isn’t much non pastel baby items out there…or if there are, they are out of my price range! I decided to make my own little Lumberjack Changing table pad cover! It is super easy and anyone could do it! The nice thing is, you can choose fabric that you love and that matches your nursery decor. I chose something like this Buffalo Plaid fabric.
This easy sewing project took me about an hour! I’m not a professional seamstress…I’m more of a “‘wing it” sewer. It has worked out pretty good for me so far! In sewing, there are those that must have patterns and those who don’t. It kind of correlates with those who need recipes and those who don’t…wingin it is kinda my style, if you haven’t noticed! I don’t have a pattern for this project, but this will be easy for any one! Stick with me and you will see what I mean!
What you need: (i’ve included my affiliate links for your convenience)
1.5 yards of your fabric of choice ( I used a fabric with some stretch and it really worked out well. I would recommend finding a knit or other stretchy fabric to use.)
What to do:
First you are going to lay out your fabric on the floor or a table to measure how much fabric you need for your changing table pad. Make sure that there is enough fabric on all sides to fold over the edge to the bottom of the pad with at least 3-4 inches extra covering the bottom of the pad. You will need room to add a seam for a pocket to put your elastic in..*
2. After you make sure you have enough fabric on each side, cut right a square out of each corner that comes to a point at each of the corners of the changing pad. This will allow you to sew the corner pocket on each corner. You will fold the right sides together and sew a seam down each on the back side of the fabric (and later you will turn back inside out!
3. Sew the corners.
4. Fold over the edge of the cover about 1 – 1.5 inches and sew a seam, leaving a 2 inch opening so that you will be able to feed in the elastic!
5. Use a large safety-pin to feed the elastic through the pocket that you just made. Don’t cut off the end until you know how long it needs to be! I tied off the elastic and put my cover on the changing table pad to see if it would fit. I then tightened the elastic and tied a knot.
6. Sew the 2 ends of elastic together and hand sew the opening for the elastic closed…(all though I didn’t do this…I was super lazy!) .
7. It should look something similar to this on the bottom! You are all done!! I love that I can toss this into the washing machine when it gets dirty…and we all know it will!
Changing table pad cover tutorialHow to make changing table pad cover
Supersize your mini-lathe with this all-in-one lathe stand and workcenter.
A mini-lathe packs some pretty serious turning capability into a tiny package. But just because they are small doesn’t mean that you can set your mini-lathe up on a wimpy, lightweight stand. Just like a full-size lathe, a mini-lathe needs a stand that is heavy and rigid enough to absorb vibrations. The lathe stand shown here certainly meets those criteria, but it also offers a lot more. The top is extra large to give you room for a grinder or a bed extension. A large drawer provides plenty of space for lathe accessories. And a pair of specialized tool drawers keep all your turning tools ready to go at a moment’s notice. A couple of shelves offer a place to keep turning blanks and other supplies. And to top it all off, this stand is mobile — which is especially convenient if you have a “mini”-shop to match your lathe.
SELECT YOUR PLAN PACKAGE
12 pages of detailed how-to instructions ensure your success
50 full-color photos, illustration and exploded views
Cutting diagrams and materials list
Retail sources for project supples
Note: After your purchase, you will receive an email containing a PDF attachment of your purchased plan, as well as instructions for logging in to download the plan and access any other associated files and videos, which will all be located on this page.
We decided that our little farm needed a root cellar to store our produce in. For those unfamiliar with the term, a root cellar is an underground room that acts like a natural refrigerator, maintaining temperatures in the mid 30's F in the winter and mid 50's in the summer.
Step one: Dig a hole in the ground. We are fortunate to have a local gravedigger who is a real artist with a backhoe. He can carve a hole with straight sides almost within an inch of what you ask for.
Step two, pour a concrete footer. Then start laying blocks. About 320 went into this 8 x 8 foot cellar.
Almost finished here. Now, for the fun part, pouring a concrete roof. A simple flat slab wouldn't do, for you want condensation to run off to the sides. So, I created a plywood from with an arched top. The arch would also create a stronger roof. It also created a very strong form.
I built the form in the shop, then dismantled it.
The arches are 1/2 inch plywood pressed into dadoed grooves in the 2x4's. This created an extremely strong structure.
Satisfied with the form I reassembled it on the root cellar walls.
A nice snug fit, supported by 3 vertical 2x4's on each side. (Not shown in the picture are 8 pieces of 1/2" plywood approximately 6" x 23". These were installed after the plywood sheets were added. They are used as extra reinforcing ribs by wedging them between the plywood sheets and the top of the 2x4's.) Next, the plywood, a sheet of plastic and lots of 1/2 rebar. Lots of rebar. Rebar is cheap, so why not? If this were a flat 4 inch slab, the calculated load rating is around 250 pounds/square foot. More then enough. But it is arched, and up to 5 inches thick. Also the rebar extends into the walls a foot, and are cemented in place. Not sure what the load rating is now, but it is certainly more than adequate.
18 half inch rebars on 8 inch centers. Strong enough!
Next, add a perimeter to the form and pour concrete. About 4,000 pounds worth. I expected at least a little deformation of my form, for all that weight was being borne by my 5 arches, but there was none! Impressive.
Not taking any chances, I did not enter the cellar until I was confident the concrete was fully cured.
Removing the form from inside was not difficult, for it was designed for easy disassembly and re-use.
A view of the top before the entrance was completed and the cellar covered with 2 feet of earth. The wood at the rear is covering the ends of the rebar to prevent injury. They will be part of the reinforcement for the entrance-way.
I poured the roof in 3 sections, for that is the most concrete I can handle working alone. The seams are nearly invisible from below, and are waterproof. It was not difficult creating the arch in the top using standard concrete. The radius of the top arch is about 6 inches larger than below.
The arched ceiling is as glossy as a counter top, thanks to the plastic sheet I laid over the plywood.
See light reflecting off ceiling in picture below left.
Below Right: Add stairs and doors at top and bottom, and you have a fine root cellar, ready for lots of fruits and vegetables. Currently we are storing apples, carrots and potatoes, and we are pleased with the results.
One of the two 4 inch vents can be seen in the corner. The other is in the opposite corner.
To save labor and materials, I built the stairway with half of it on a foundation at the floor level, and the other half of the foundation just below the frost line. I felt that digging the entire stairwell to the floor level would have just created a large inaccessible space.
This project took a few months of evenings after work over the summer. It was cooler then, and the mortar did not dry too fast. All concrete and mortar, about 8,000 pounds in all, was either mixed with a small mixer, or by hand.
Here is a drawing of the block layout. In order to center my stairwell, I had to cut some blocks into two pieces, a 12 inch piece, and a 4 inch piece. That is because my interior width is 88 inches. If you make your width 96 inches, you will not have to do this. A wet tile saw cuts through concrete blocks with ease. I have used mine to cut many blocks, including the angled pieces that form the arched tops of the walls. Since the saw can only cut about 1/2 inch deep, you make a cut on each side. The blocks will easily split then by driving a chisel into the cut. Make gentle taps, while moving the chisel along the cut and they will break cleanly. You can see how good the cuts are in the pictures of the walls before the roof was poured.
Here is a picture of a very similar cellar. He used a higher arch, which is something I would do if I had to do it all over again, for condensation does not readily run to the sides of my flatter arch. He was very conservative and used 28 vertical supports. I used only 6. His roof weighed 5,000 pounds wet vs. my 4,000 pounds, therefore his supports were holding only 250 pounds each, while mine were holding 670 pounds. However, his ceiling was much higher than mine, and his 96 inch supports would be more prone to bending under the load than my 65 inch supports. His wood arches are on 16 inch centers, while mine are on 24 inch centers. However, I have a "backbone" made from a 2x4 running along the top, and 2 rows of plywood rectangles fitted in between my wood arches. He tarred his sides, I did not. To tar or not is determined by how wet your ground is. For more info see: http://campfire.theoildrum.com/node/5596
Other topics that I have that may be of interest:
A solar hot water heater. This has performed far beyond my expectations, even in winter. If you can find a used system, like I did, it will pay for itself in only a few years.
Rion Greenhouse. An easy to assemble greenhouse kit that has proven to be durable in high winds and heavy snow. It is now 5 year sold, and has held up well.
When I came to America, I had a lovely wife, two suitcases and 50 bucks. Oh man, where do I start? Everybody needs a basic tool kit, especially if you want to do woodworking. I had a limited budget. Starting out in America, I got paid low wages even though I was a Master; they tried to blame it on my language skills. Thank God my first boss did not treat me well or I’d probably still be working for him!
I started to buy tools and build this toolbox. The first tool I got was a 10″ dovetail saw. You need a marking gauge; I made one. I also bought a 6′ folding ruler.
A week later I went to the same store and bought a nice set of chisels that included 1/8″, 1/4″, 3/8″, 1/2″, 3/4″ and a 1″ chisel. I bought a two-sided Arkansas oilstone, one side rough and the other super fine. The salesman wanted to sell me sharpening oil; I told him I use kerosene.
The staple seating choice of the kitchen, bar stools are the perfect match for islands and bars. Here’s how to find the best option for your space, from height to number of stools to seating style.
Screenshot 2
Bar stools come in four standard heights named for the seating surface they pair with. To determine which you need, simply measure the height of your tabletop.
Adjustable bar stools, outfitted with hydraulic pumps that allow you to move the seat up or down, are a flexible alternative that can transition throughout spaces and uses.
Screenshot 3
The number of stools you can fit in your seating area is determined by the amount of space you should leave between each to allow for easy maneuvering. Here are the rules:
Leave 6 inches between seats if the bar stool is 16-18 inches wide
Leave 8-10 inches between seats if the bar stool is wider than 18 inches, has arms, or swivels
Bar stools come in three standard variations based on the back height:
Backless: Easily tuck under your counter, but less comfortable the longer you sit
Low back: Short or mid-height lip for a bit of support, and tend to skew modern
Full back: Akin to dining chairs (aka the most comfortable for daily meals)
Styles with arms are available with low or full backs and often taper so the stools can be pushed in. Swivel bar stools make maneuvering in and out easy and come in all back options.
We decided that our little farm needed a root cellar to store our produce in. For those unfamiliar with the term, a root cellar is an underground room that acts like a natural refrigerator, maintaining temperatures in the mid 30’s F in the winter and mid 50’s in the summer.
Step 1: The Hole
Dig a hole in the ground. We are fortunate to have a local gravedigger who is a real artist with a backhoe. He can carve a hole with straight sides almost within an inch of what you ask for.
Step 2: The Footer
Pour a concrete footer for the walls.
Step 3: Lay the blocks
Start laying blocks. About 320 went into this 8 x 8 foot cellar. Now, for the fun part, pouring a concrete roof. A simple flat slab wouldn’t do, for you want condensation to run off to the sides. So, I created a plywood from with an arched top. The arch would also create a stronger roof. It also created a very strong form.
Step 4: Build the form for the roof
I built the form in the shop, then dismantled it. The arches are 1/2 inch plywood pressed into dadoed grooves in the 2×4’s. This created an extremely strong structure.
Step 5: Asseble the form on the roof
Satisfied with the form I reassembled it on the root cellar walls. A nice snug fit, supported by 3 vertical 2×4’s on each side. (Not shown in the picture are 8 pieces of 1/2″ plywood approximately 6″ x 23″. These were installed after the plywood sheets were added. They are used as extra reinforcing ribs by wedging them between the plywood sheets and the top of the 2×4’s.) Next, the plywood, a sheet of plastic and lots of 1/2 rebar. Lots of rebar. Rebar is cheap, so why not? If this were a flat 4 inch slab, the calculated load rating is around 250 pounds/square foot. More then enough. But it is arched, and up to 5 inches thick. Also the rebar extends into the walls a foot, and are cemented in place. Not sure what the load rating is now, but it is certainly more than adequate.
Step 6: Rebar and pouring the roof
18 half inch rebars on 8 inch centers. Strong enough! Next, add a perimeter to the form and pour concrete. About 4,000 pounds worth. I expected at least a little deformation of my form, for all that weight was being borne by my 5 arches, but there was none! Impressive.
Not taking any chances, I did not enter the cellar until I was confident the concrete was fully cured.
Removing the form from inside was not difficult, for it was designed for easy disassembly and re-use.
A view of the top before the entrance was completed and the cellar covered with 2 feet of earth. The wood at the rear is covering the ends of the rebar to prevent injury. They will be part of the reinforcement for the entrance-way.
I poured the roof in 3 sections, for that is the most concrete I can handle working alone. The seams are nearly invisible from below, and are waterproof. It was not difficult creating the arch in the top using standard concrete. The radius of the top arch is about 6 inches larger than below.
The arched ceiling is as glossy as a counter top, thanks to the plastic sheet I laid over the plywood. See light reflecting off ceiling in picture below.
Step 7: Finishing The Inside
Add stairs and doors at top and bottom, and you have a fine root cellar, ready for lots of fruits and vegetables. Currently we are storing apples, carrots and potatoes, and we are pleased with the results. One of the two 4 inch vents can be seen in the corner. The other is in the opposite corner.
To save labor and materials, I built the stairway with half of it on a foundation at the floor level, and the other half of the foundation just below the frost line. I felt that digging the entire stairwell to the floor level would have just created a large inaccessible space.
This project took a few months of evenings after work over the summer. It was cooler then, and the mortar did not dry too fast. All concrete and mortar, about 8,000 pounds in all, was either mixed with a small mixer, or by hand.
The Layout
Here is a drawing of the block layout. In order to center my stairwell, I had to cut some blocks into two pieces, a 12 inch piece, and a 4 inch piece. That is because my interior width is 88 inches. If you make your width 96 inches, you will not have to do this. A wet tile saw cuts through concrete blocks with ease. I have used mine to cut many blocks, including the angled pieces that form the arched tops of the walls. Since the saw can only cut about 1/2 inch deep, you make a cut on each side. The blocks will easily split then by driving a chisel into the cut. Make gentle taps, while moving the chisel along the cut and they will break cleanly. You can see how good the cuts are in the pictures of the walls before the roof was poured.
Concluding Thoughts
Here is a picture of a very similar cellar. He used a higher arch, which is something I would do if I had to do it all over again, for condensation does not readily run to the sides of my flatter arch. He was very conservative and used 28 vertical supports. I used only 6. His roof weighed 5,000 pounds wet vs. my 4,000 pounds, therefore his supports were holding only 250 pounds each, while mine were holding 670 pounds. However, his ceiling was much higher than mine, and his 96 inch supports would be more prone to bending under the load than my 65 inch supports. His wood arches are on 16 inch centers, while mine are on 24 inch centers. However, I have a “backbone” made from a 2×4 running along the top, and 2 rows of plywood rectangles fitted in between my wood arches. He tarred his sides, I did not. To tar or not is determined by how wet your ground is. For more info see this.
Note from Walden Labs: If your ground is wet or you get a lot of rain, it’s highly recommended that you install proper drainage under the floor and along the outer walls of the root cellar. Instead of backfilling dirt up to the wall, install a french drain on the outside at floorlevel and backfill with gravel to allow rainwater to drain away from the walls.
